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LEJOG


Tuesday 18th May 2010

Westhoughton to Kirkby Lonsdale


By God this was a hard day!

After breaking my fast at Wetherspoons (the Robert Shaw) I set off from Westhoughton and after making my way through Chorley, where I used to live over 30 years ago, I followed the roads to the high Pennine country and found the hills steadily becoming more frequent and more demanding.


Near Chorley
The road just north of Lower Copthurst
near Chorley
Looking north  from just east of Mellor
Looking north from just east of Mellor
 

Whilst cycling along I noticed a Post Office at Whalley and thought I’d call in and try to get my record sheet stamped – if you get 6+ stamps showing where you’ve been you can join the E2E Club and get a T-shirt, always an incentive! Earlier in the trip at the first PO I’d tried they had turned me down, the gits, as if they suspected I was going to write ‘IOU £5000’ above their precious rubber-stamped mark. By contrast I’d had a more helpful response from the local library who stamped my sheet with a smile and a good-luck wish. Since then I’d only asked at small, rural Post Offices and they had all been more obliging.

At Whalley I went in and looked around for a postcard or something small to buy before asking for the rubberstamp. I didn’t see any, however, and the Postmaster was a rather severe-looking muslim gentleman with a long beard and the traditional hill-tribe pyjama outfit. I decided not to bother and went back out to the bike but then stopped myself, thinking that I was being a bit unfair. I should at least give him the chance to show himself a decent chap, I thought, so I went back in and without buying anything just asked if he’d be kind enough to stamp my sheet. Of course he turned out to be a nice chap who not only stamped the sheet but asked about the ride and then offered me, free of charge, any drink I liked from his cool box. The lady working in the shop part – a more traditionally English looking lady - was also very interested and friendly. They were a nice pair.


The railway viaduct over the River Calder, at Whalley
The railway viaduct at Whalley.
Built in 1850, this is the longest
railway viaduct in Lancashire

Anyway off I went, stopping frequently because the route followed unclassified roads and a lot of attention was needed. This slowed up my progress quite a bit, of course, as did the hills. It was a blue-skies day and fairly warm work – the backs of my hands had already been burnt the day before and they got even more sore today.


River Ribble at Great Mitton
Crossing the River Ribble at Great Mitton

At length I reached Slaidburn which I think is where John, or perhaps Simon, had said they were going to stay. I was a bit tired by now and briefly contemplated staying there myself but in the end I decided to be a man and press on to my original goal, Kirkby Lonsdale.

What a road it was next! Through empty, hilly sheep country with no habitation in sight – quite desolate. And the road went up and up… and then up a bit more! It was absolutely exhausting; the top was near 480 metres, over half a Munro, and it felt like it. I had to get off and push and my energy levels were down to minus figures by now. Still, at last I got to the top and it was a bit easier for a while, heading down to High Bentham.


At the top, en route for High Bentham
At the top, en route for High Bentham

Once again I considered stopping when I reached High Bentham but though knackered I decided to press on as it looked like being only 4 miles further. Unfortunately it was 2 miles to the A65 where a sign then said Kirkby Lonsdale 5 miles! At least the A65 was inclining the right way for by now I couldn’t face any hills at all – any incline of note saw me dismounting and pushing, I just had no energy left at all. Perhaps this was what cyclists call ‘the bonk’ or ‘the wall’. Maybe I hadn’t eaten enough during the day – since breakfast I’d had one cheese and tomato sandwich and a KitKat. Not really enough for a day like today.

At Kirkby Lonsdale I got a room at the first B&B I came to, ‘Wyck House’, at £30 for the night.


The B&B at Kirkby Lonsdale
Wyck House

I dumped the gear, did my usual tasks, had a bath, spoke to Trisha then legged it as quickly as possible for somewhere to eat. I found Avanti's bar where I had a Guinness (funny how these ancient advertising slogans like ‘Guinness is good for you’ retain their hold on your brain) pasta pesto, a bowl of olives, bread and sticky toffee pudding. Hopefully that would refill my reserves a bit as there were still some more hills to tackle the next day on the way to Carlisle, my next target.

Distance: 65.73 miles
Average speed: 9.8 mph
Max speed: 36 mph observed