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19th February 2007
 
Sgor na h-Ulaidh

Map

The weather forecast for this day was not so good as the previous day's had been, varying between 'heavy rain' and 'light rain'. All a bit discouraging but after having breakfast it was still dry so we drove up to the starting point for Sgor na h-Ulaidh, a layby on the A82 at about grid ref NN121563. There was light cloud obscuring the highest peaks but as yet our target couldn't be seen - we had a 2½ mile walk-in first to get to it.


The cart track
The cart track

At 9.56 we set off up the cart track, following the course of the Allt na Muidhe for about 1 ¼ miles, then a rough path took us on for a further 1 ¼ miles. Andrew was setting a fairly brisk pace at this time and I found myself struggling to keep up, even though the climbing bit hadn't started yet. I don't know whether it was last night's whisky, old age or simply the drain on reserves from yesterday's exertions but my legs felt like lead and I was soon quite done in. Fortunately mid-way along the path section Andrew said that he too was feeling pretty knackered so we had a rest and proceeded after that with a few rest stops.


Knackered
Knackered

The path finally brought us to the steep, craggy, north face of Sgor na h-Ulaidh, whose higher reaches were lost in the clouds. This side of the mountain was far too difficult for us to attempt so we turned left and made our way up a steep, scree slope to the ridge between Sgor na h-Ulaidh and its neighbouring top, Stob an Fhuarain. Once again the rocks underfoot became icy and treacherous as we got higher but at last we made it onto the ridge where we were greeted with a fierce, icy wind. At this point the plan was to turn right and make our way up the NE spur of the mountain to the summit.

There was no path apparent where we were and the summit was still invisible because of the mist but off we set, following the rising incline. Gradually the going became harder and harder for unknowingly we were edging further and further round and onto the northern face. It was now so steep and rocky that we were having to use our hands to grab ice-covered rocks and try to haul ourselves upwards. It was blatantly dangerous and I began to wonder whether, even though I could sense we were nearing the top, the most sensible thing might be to just give up and go back down.

Although going down wouldn't have been any easier than going up by that point. Still, the ground now seemed to have that 'almost-there' feel to it and with a final effort we managed to get over the last few rocks. And there we were, at the summit - a desolate confluence of rocks, ice, cloud and wind.


Sgor na h-Ulaidh summit
At the summit

It was bitterly cold and the wind was tearing at us so we paused only for a brief photo and then set about the descent. I suggested we move further over, away from the north face, to where I hoped the going would be easier. We did this and sure enough the going was easier - still ice and snow on rocks but no great drops or steep scrambles.


Ice fingers
Ice fingers on the easier but wrong way down

A couple of hundred feet of descent later, however, the cloud started to thin out and the land looked… unfamiliar. Rather annoyingly the compass didn't seem to be pointing in the right direction either. Freezing cold, exhausted and buffetted by the ferocious wind the realisation sank in that we were lost.

Hurray for GPS, eh. After a bit of scratching of heads we worked out where we had gone wrong. Sgor na h-Ulaidh has two easterly ridges leading off it - the north-east ridge and the south-east ridge. We had gone too far over and were now on the south-east one, ie the wrong one.

We forced our groaning limbs to take us back up for some distance then cut across and fortunately found a path. This was the path we should have ascended in the first place as it avoided the dangerous bits we'd encountered on our way up. Even so it was still quite difficult enough and I donned the crampons to help keep my footing on the treacherous ice and snow covered rocks.


Meall Lighiche
Out of the clouds,
the view towards Meall Lighiche

This time we made it back to the col and from there it was just a case of retracing our inbound route - back down the scree then the long, grass-covered slopes by the stream, thigh muscles screaming, and finally the easier, level stretch of the cart track.

Back at the car by 4.27

That night we headed south and stopped at Arrochar where we stayed at Rowantreebank, a B&B run by Dave and Angie (£25). Had an average veg lasagne at the nearby pub, Ben Arthur's Bothy, and a few beers later in the Loch Long Hotel.