[Trip Index] [Munro Index] [Home] 25th August 2007   Ben Hope - The northernmost Munro Map On Thursday night after work I had picked up Amber and we had driven north to stay at Aunt Madge's. Then we spent all day Friday motoring up to the very top of the country, finally rolling to a stop at the village of Tongue where we found accommodation at the Tigh-Nan-Ubhal guesthouse (£30 each). Amber cheerfully pointed out that the distance from Ware to Tongue was exactly 666 miles. We managed to get a nice pasta meal at the Brass Tap bar in the Tongue Hotel and had a couple of games of pool, honour being satisfied at one win each. Then a quick walk up the road to sample the other hotel where we had a drink and a game of dominoes. There was some mist around early on the Saturday morning and even a slight bit of drizzle but it soon cleared as we drove west from Tongue then south down the little-used road along Strathmore. We parked at a sort of large sheep shed where another car was parked and two men were busy getting booted up. They said hello and exchanged a few pleasantries before setting off ahead of us - they were using an OS map from the 1960s but I don't suppose mountains change very much. Amber at the start of the climb Amber and I set off up the path a few minutes later at 10.15. It was a bit muddy and rocky but very well trodden and ensured that there would be no navigation problems. The first part of the ascent was quite steep following a stream, the Allt a Mhuiseil, which was tumbling down the green hillside in a series of small waterfalls; some rowan trees stood by the side of it, each laden with seasonal clumps of scarlet berries. It was a bit of a slog but we climbed upwards, heading for a break in the cliffs which would enable us to get onto the main north-south ridge of the mountain. On reaching it we turned north up a gentler incline and continued along the ridge with the western cliffs dropping away on our left. Slogging up the muddy path Looking south down Strathmore and north past the western cliffs As we gained height we were fortunate enough to be just 30 yards away when a golden eagle suddenly rocketed into view, soaring upwards on the updraft from the cliffs. It was the nearest I've ever seen one and there was no mistaking it - the dark brown plumage turning golden brown near the underside wing roots, the huge broad wings. Very impressive it was and great to see. Amber yelled out to take a picture so I grabbed for my camera and made a mess of switching it on and had to do it again. Naturally by the time I was ready the eagle had shrunk to a far off dot in the sky but I took the picture anyway. It may be a dot to everyone else but I know what it is. (A couple of ravens had been flying around earlier too and we had also seen two reddish frogs and one green one.) The path now made its way up over stonier, less muddy ground and after one last steepish bit it was a gentle incline to the top (1.06) where a trig point and four other walkers awaited us. We got one of them to take our photo The high ground - less muddy Ben Hope summit There were good views all round although it was cloudy overhead and the mist was still lingering on some tops and at the far end of the glen. Nevertheless we could see a fair distance over the great empty swathes of moorland that predominate in that part of Scotland. To the east was an impressive hulk of a mountain which proved to be Ben Loyal - the Queen of Mountains according to a bloke Amber had started talking to in the pub the previous night. It did look like an interesting climb and is one of the Corbetts. Further away to the SSW we could see the dark shape of Ben Klibreck which we were hoping to climb the following day. A few more people had turned up at the top and in fact we saw several parties during the day for it was a popular mountain despite being so remote. During the course of the ascent we had just needed T-shirt and shirts but it was colder near the top and quite windy so I had the Berghaus on by now and a hat, while Amber had put her fleece and gloves on. We decided to do a small loop for the return trip by heading out along the eastern ridge as far as the first peak. There were some steep drops to the north and we were buffeted and blasted by wind but all went well and having made it to the peak we then angled back down towards the main path and rejoined it near to where it broached the cliffs. A straightforward descent then, back the way we came. Back at the car by 4.10. Wind-blown on the eastern ridge Back at the car We drove south along the unclassified road, stopping briefly to take a look at the iron age broch, Dun Dornaigil. Eventually we came to the tiny hamlet of Altnaharra - half a dozen houses and a hotel - and asked at the hotel about accommodation. They could offer us some, they said, at £130 per person per night - London prices in the middle of nowhere. Maybe they catered for the up-market fishing and shooting mob. For us it was a case of good luck to them and goodbye. By the broch We continued on and tried at the Crask Inn which would have been nicely sited for the morrow's attempt at Ben Klibreck. Despite being absolutely in the middle of nowhere it was full up, however, so I never even got as far as finding out what its rates were. Instead we carried on for another 18 miles to Lairg where we got fixed up at Ian and Win Brinklow's B&B for £20 each. A touch more reasonable than the Altnaharra! The Lairg Crofters Festival happened to be taking place today and a pipe band was marching up and down the road in their kilts as if to welcome us. Win made us both a nice cup of tea and gave us some cake as she told us about her daughter living in Nottingham and her computer programmer son living in Manchester. She said it was her 50th wedding anniversary this year and she and her husband were looking forward to going on a cruise around Scandinavia. The only pub nearby was a place called the Nip Inn where we got a very nice nut roast and rice for £7.50. Had a couple of pints then returned to the B&B to do the crossword.