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5th October 2008
 
Meall nan Tarmachan

Map

Done it
 
The last Munro.


As usual I had driven up to Ramsbottom to stay with Andrew on Friday evening then we journeyed north to Killin on the Saturday. It absolutely poured down all the way as far as Crianlarich but then it started to clear and was pretty much ok when we got to Killin. There we met up with Jas and Chris who had travelled up in Chris's car. The Falls of Dochart are at Killin and they were very full with the heavy rain.


The Falls of Dochart
The Falls of Dochart

That night we had some Ossian beer in the Falls of Dochart Hotel along with a goat's cheese vegetable pot and new potatoes and salad - very tasty. Then we wandered along to the Craigard Hotel and called in at their Fishers Bar where I opted for Guinness as there was no draught beer on offer (or 'cask' as the barmaid said it should be called). There was live music provided by a couple of old hippies, one with long, grey hair and a Fender guitar, the other on some sort of tambourine drum - he looked like an ancient version of the odd bloke from 'Sparks' - the one who used to wear a Hitler moustache and the strange facial expression.

The two of them were doing old Scots and Irish songs, stuff about Killiecrankie and Bonny Dundee. An amiable pair. They asked us where we were from and when we said Manchester they did 'the Leaving of Liverpool' as being as close as they could get. Jas then said that he was from Malaysia and did they know any Malaysian songs. Strangely they didn't. Shockingly the 'Sparks' one - short white hair and moustache - described Andy Stewart's 'Scottish Soldier' as 'drivel' when I suggested it - probably doesn't know the words!


Blue skies
Early morning blue skies from the B&B window

In contrast to the terrible weather of the day before Sunday dawned to blue skies and it looked like a great day for my last Munro. We were staying at the Drumfinn Guest House on the main street (£30) - used to be the Bank of Scotland building in days gone by. It was OK although the breakfast was a touch on the slight side - a small poached egg, a potato scone, one small grilled tomato and 2 small mushrooms cut into halves to make it look like there were 4 of them. We'd ordered porridge the day before but forgot and had cereal so we had to cancel the porridge.

After breakfast we drove to the starting point just past the Ben Lawers visitor centre, parking on a bit of rough road just before a gate. After booting up we passed through the gate and set off up the cart-track at 9.45. Despite the fine day it was cold and a northerly wind was blowing. Still after a few hundred yards we came to where a path led off from the cart-track and made its way up the slopes of MnT's southern spur. The ascent soon warmed us up and there was a good path there so no navigation difficulties. As we gained height the wind got stronger but never enough to be a real nuisance or source of discomfort.


The dam on Lochan na Lairige
Looking back at the dam on Lochan na Lairige
shortly after starting out
Meall Garbh
Meall Garbh
 

Taking a break halfway up
Taking a break halfway up
Ben Lawers
Looking across to Ben Lawers

Once on the crest of the ridge it was a straightforward walk over an intervening hillock and then on up to the summit (11.15).   #284.   All done after 20 years!

We shook hands, took photos and toasted the end of the campaign with a couple of drams of 'Famous Grouse' Scotch whisky which I'd brought up, cushioned in an old smartwool walking sock. Plus 4 small glasses.


The Last One
 
Andrew, me, Jas and Chris
Andrew, me, Jas and Chris


--------- The celebratory dram ---------

Getting out the whisky
 
Jas
 

Chris
 
Andrew
 

It was a great moment for me which more than made up for all the dangerous, cold, cloudy or wet days when I'd stumped to the top of some remote hill for no better reason than ticking it off on a list. Of course there had also been lots of good days on the hills too. Good and bad all clamoured for attention in my memories now but overlaying all was a great feeling of satisfaction. I'd done it.

Now there were good views, clear skies and an interesting ridge still before us.


Meall Garbh, Creag na Caillich and Beinn nan Eachan
Meall Garbh and Beinn nan Eachan with the lower
and more distant Creag na Caillich between them

After the Munro the ridge continues over a further 3 'tops': Meall Garbh, Beinn nan Eachan and Creag na Caillich. Despite these tops not counting as separate Munros they still involve a fair bit of descending and reascending between each one, with the way being quite rocky and narrow in places. We reached the summit of MG first, a fine hill in its own right, crossed a short, very narrow stretch and then came to the steep descent to the col between MG and BnE.


The ridge just past Meall Garbh summit
The ridge just past Meall Garbh summit

The rains of the previous day had been followed by a cold, cloudless night and there was ice on the rocks at the top. We picked our way cautiously down hill for some way and then came to a steep, rocky face which looked like it would need a bit of scrambling to get past. Unfortunately while it might have been easy another day the ice underfoot made it quite awkward today. I shipped my walking pole and stowed my gloves as despite it making my hands cold I thought a good grip would be needed getting down here. Andrew went first, then Jas, then me and finally Chris.


Andrew commencing the climb down
Andrew commencing the climb down

As I was negotiating the first few feet I suddenly heard a startled cry and on looking up I was just in time to see Andrew dropping out of sight over the edge. There followed what any decent crime writer would describe as a series of sickening thuds then all was quiet for about two frozen seconds. The awful possibilities went through everyone's minds. Then everyone started calling out asking Andrew if he was ok.


Me and Jas descending
Me and Jas descending
The spot where Andrew fell
The spot where Andrew fell

Miraculously, apart from some impressive lacerations on his legs, he was undamaged, having fallen about 20 foot down the rock face. It was a sobering moment and certainly shocked Jas who was on his first Scottish mountain trip and who had been right behind Andrew. Still, all was well in the end.

The remainder of our party took considerable care getting down that stretch but once past it there were no further difficulties. Andrew was ok to carry on and we were soon at the top of Beinn nan Eachan and able to see other parties - there were quite a few on the mountain, it being a good hill and a nice day - suddenly slow down at the bit where we'd struggled.

On BnE we paused for something to eat. Just off the summit out of the wind it was very pleasant in the warm sunlight with the fine views before us. Peace and serenity. The wind was dying down now anyway as we descended BnE - also quite steep in places but no difficult bits. Then one last, easy climb up the final top, Creag na Caillich. A good route all told.


On Creag na Caillich at the end of the Tarmachan ridge
The last top

After that we backtracked to the col then took a path down, heading for the bull-dozed cart-track. The path soon disappeared but navigation was fairly simple and on reaching the cart track we followed it all the way back to the cars (16.00)

A great day for my last munro.

Followed by a few pints of Ossian in the Killin Hotel's 'Village Pub' bar that evening.