Geal Charn
A' Mharconaich
Beinn Udlamain
Sgairneach Mhor
Map
These four hills are on the western side of the Pass of Drummochter, just south of
Dalwhinnie. The area seems to be permanently in cloud and torrential rain for I remember
sitting in the café in Dalwhinnie two years ago with Trisha, after doing Carn na Caim,
watching the rain sheeting down outside.
Still, it started off ok today, dry but with the higher summits in cloud. Trisha dropped me
off in the car park by Balsporran Cottages (9.40) - an isolated farm/B&B - and I crossed
the railway line and headed off along a cart-track west then south-west.
Setting off along the cart-track |
After a short distance a path leaves the cart track and heads off up the NE ridge of
Geal Carn through heather, grass and then rocks - it was boggy lower down but became rockier near
the top. In the early stages the top of the mountain looked quite clear but soon
the lower edges of the cloud were closing in and visibility came and went. At one point
I took a picture thinking I'd reached the top because the land had levelled off - there
were cairns overlooking the eastern edge, and the cloud was obscuring anything higher.
I soon found out there was a bit more yet though, but it wasn't difficult and I reached
the true top at 11.10. Windy there, but dry.
Summit of Geal Charn |
Easily descending Geal Charn's southern ridge along a clear, stony path I had a good view
of Loch Ericht when the cloud cleared a bit (although for some reason I thought it was Loch Laggan
at the time). It was easy walking and then at the bottom I turned eastwards to begin my plod up the
A' Mharconaich ridge - a boggy, steepish slog. Once atop the ridge, however, it was a nice
amble over a rounded, mossy, cloudy ridge up to the summit which was topped with a windbreak
rather than a cairn (12.25). The broad ridge to the top seemed very like the one I'd traversed
a few days earlier on Ben Wyvis.
Loch Ericht on the way from Geal Charn to A' Mharconaich |
The cloud cleared from time to time and let me see where I was headed next - Beinn Udlamain,
the Gloomy Mountain! It was an easy gentle descent and reascent following a line of fence posts;
an obvious path and firm, stony terrain. Looking towards Beinn Udlamain the route appeared as
a graceful curve upwards from left to right up to the top, following the ridge. It turned
out to be a nice, undemanding amble but as I reached the top more cloud closed in (this
was the highest peak) and it began to rain. On the way up I told the mountain that I'd call
it Jolly Mountain in my memoirs if all went well, as I didn't think it deserved its gloomy
sobriquet.
Beinn Udlamain |
From the summit of Beinn Udlamain I followed the fence posts south down the mountainside and
at the bottom turned East towards
the slopes of Sgairneach Mhor. As I was crossing the boggy bit at the bottom it began to
thunder, which was a bit unnerving, myself being rather exposed up there. Looking at
the map now I realise I could have called it a day at that point and made off down the Coire Dhomhain back
to the road - but it didn't occur to me at the time. You can't keep fishing the map out in
the rain or it starts to disintegrate. I wouldn't have liked to finish without the last
peak anyway.
So, beset all round by cloud, heavy rain, hail, a roaring cold wind and thunder, I slogged
up the steep western flank of Sgairneach Mhor. I was feeling a bit tired by then or maybe it's just the
cold and rain that sap the spirits. The rain did ease off after I'd passed the steep lower
slopes, however, leaving me to peer vainly through the mist for any recognisable feature.
It's fairly level there and though it sounds unnecessary I did have to resort to the trusty
compass to find the summit, which is marked by a concrete trig point. At the top I was rewarded
for my efforts by the rain stopping and the cloud clearing a bit while two Tornado jets barrelled
past, one after the other, following the A9 north. Both were below me.
Sgairneach Mhor summit |
A nice amble across the top then and on down the NE spur. This levels out and approaches a
small hillock which is followed by a larger hill - the Sow of Atholl. I turned NNE away from
the path just before the hillock and descended through heather to the Allt Coire Dhomhain -
no sign of a path but once you've reached the stream and crossed it there's a cart track
which takes you all the way back to the road, leaving you about 2 miles south of your starting place.
It was raining steadily on the way down and I was fairly wet when I reached the road (4.20).
Called Trisha on the mobile - she was quarter of a mile down the road in a layby and a bit
grumpy when I got her to come the extra bit to pick me up, moaning about the difficulties of
turning right and getting into and out of the bit I was waiting at.
Never mind, eh.
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