Beinn Bhuide
Map
I drove up on Sunday and spent the night with my Aunt Madge, then on the Monday
I collected Andrew and we set off up north. The weather was great so I wanted to do
something that day if possible and the best chance was Beinn Bhuide, the mountain
we'd turned back from the previous February (see here) after running out of time walking up the
long approach road. This approach road is private and has a 'No Walkers Cars' sign
on it but we ignored that this time and drove on up Glen Fyne for about 3 miles. When
we came to the spot where the road becomes a cart track we encountered a landrover
which slowed down as it came level but not wanting to be told to turn round and shove
off I stared fixedly ahead and drove past and the bloke couldn't be bothered pursuing.
He drove off and we parked the car just across the river from there, on a concrete
slab off the road.
We set off at 2.45 and walked for 15 mins till we came to the Inverchorachan bothy
where there was another blasted landrover. The bloke stopped for a chat and told us
how we could save time by cutting across the top back to the quarry. 'You came past
that?' he asked. 'Oh aye,' we both agreed. Well we had done… last February. As he
cleared off I looked into the window of the bothy and saw the same jar of marmite
that I had noted in February, still waiting there to delight some starving climber's
palate - well, maybe the next time I'm passing.
We left the bothy at 3.00 and followed a path by a fence, through some bracken in the
early stages then on up a steep grassy hillside spotted with some rocky outcrops.
Having reached the ridge at a col between a 901 metre peak and Beinn Bhuide we followed
a more distinct path which we found there. The going then was easier and less steep but
led past some steep drops. It was a glorious day with blue skies and white clouds but
alas I'd left the camera in the car and missed the chance of capturing some great scenes.
Got to the top at 5.30 - there's a small cairn and a fallen trig point there - then
returned the way we'd come, making good time to reach the car by 7.14.
From there we drove round to the campsite at Beinglas Farm, which I'd walked through
the previous month when I climbed Beinn Chabhair . We put up Andrew's tent - he'd forgotten
his tent pegs but as I'd brought my own tent as well we were able to use my pegs. There
were some midges about but they weren't a great problem. After a meal of veggy quiche,
chips, salad and a pint at the campsite we wandered off through the gloom to the nearby
pub a couple of hundred yards down the road. This is the Drover's Arms, situated about
10 miles south of Crianlarich on the A82 - ie the middle of nowhere.
The Drovers is a pub with masses of character. It's overflowing with ageing, stuffed
animals including a snarling bear with a moth-eaten muzzle just inside the entrance,
and a suit of armour, plus loads of old pictures including one of Gladstone with what
looked like a bullet hole in the canvas an inch from his head. A portrait of a lady on
the stairs had been similarly punctured in several places whilst in the main room there
were swords on the wall, dark wooden ceilings, a bare wood floor and fireplaces at either
end, the further one with an open coal fire burning in it. The walls themselves were
dark, pocked plaster and the unused fireplace, the one near the door, had a fire-blackened,
dusty surround topped with the odd stuffed animal. The whole place was dusty, dark and
aged and steeped in a kind of deliberate, eccentric neglect.
We were served by a taciturn barman, the archetypal dour Scot, dressed in a kilt. There
were a fair number of people in there though, despite it being the middle of nowhere.
Some would be from the campsite, of course, while others would be walkers doing the
West Highland Way which runs past there.
Had a couple of pints then made our way back to the campsite. Slept ok. £4.50 each for
the campsite plus £4.40 for breakfast for me - Andrew just made his own.
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