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Sgurr nan Gillean Am Basteir Bruach na Frithe Map I had a guide for this trio too - don't think I could have done all three in one go on my own as it would have meant tackling the west ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean which was supposed to be a bit tricky. Come to that the SE ridge was supposed to be a bit tricky too, and Am Basteir… tricky. Also, because of my misadventures earlier in the week, I thought it would keep Trisha happy if I had help too. I'd rung up Winky O'Neale, whom I'd spoken to a year earlier regarding the In Pin. That hadn't worked out but I still had her number and by happy chance she said she was doing Sgurr nan Gillean and Am Basteir on Saturday with two clients so I arranged to tag along. It was another great day, as if in recompense for my early cloud-wracked Cuillin trips; today was sunny with some white clouds and later just the odd bit of cloud curling round the southern Cuillin peaks - but clear where we were.
I met Winky and her clients at the Sligachan at 9.00. The clients were both women: Rosemary, a grey-haired lady in her 50s (probably), and Pam, who told me she was older than 63 but certainly didn't look it. Both were very fit ladies. Rosemary was wanting to climb Am Basteir to complete her set of Cuillin munros and Pam needed Sgurr nan Gillean to complete her set (or was it the other way around?). Anyway they had both generously agreed to add on Bruach na Frithe as well, even though they'd already done it, so I could complete my set of Cuillins too. Very decent of them. After today Rosemary would only have 4 munros left to do; she expected to finish them in July so I'll look out for her name to appear in the SMC list. We set off at 9.15 and followed the path from the Sligachan Hotel across the moor and to the right of the Bhasteir Gorge where it became stony and scree-like. A steep ascent up a scree slope brought us to the ridge between Sgurr nan Gillean and Am Basteir where we donned the silly helmets, dumped the rucksacks and turned towards the daunting west ridge of SnG.
From the col you climb up a 25 ft chimney - we used a rope but it's easy enough. Then there's a short scramble forward before you get to the hardest bit which at one point involves supporting yourself by handholds and one foot on a less-than-3-inch deep foothold as you swing around the corner of this square block of rock above a 3000 ft drop. You locate your right foot in a toehold on the other side, transfer your weight to it, then swing yourself round over the void. Very… stimulating. That was the Gendarme, and the thought did come to mind 'why on earth am I doing this? Risking my life like this…' Oh, alright I had a rope on - didn't really register just then though. Still, we all managed it ok. I think I wasn't the only apprehensive one at that point but the upper lips were all kept firmly wobble-free. It was easier after the Gendarme; near the top you have to squeeze through a hole in the rock and then it's a simple scramble up to the rocky summit (12.50). Grand views from there. We had a rest and chatted to some fell-runner type who'd followed us up - just wearing shorts, trainers and t-shirt - then we turned round and descended the way we'd come. Again a bit un-nerving in places but probably less so the second time round.
Back down on the ridge we had a bite to eat then carried the rucksacks a bit further along before dumping them again and setting off up Am Basteir's eastern ridge. This was pretty straightforward - a bit exposed in places but nowhere near as bad as SnG. The only dodgy bit was the so-called Bad Step but the difficulties of this have been over-rated, I think. We all roped up for it and this time I went first but I had no problems with it - it was a fairly simple climb down a 15 foot drop and the handholds are there if you look for them. I think it's better to climb down there than risk the ledges on the south side which some folk have used. Those ledges are uneven and covered in loose rock and don't look at all safe - there are some large drops there if you slip. Anyway, once past the Bad Step there was just an easy walk up to the top (2.20), a smallish, rocky platform with a cairn - and, of course, with some impressive vertical drops to the north and west.
We returned the same way as we had come up, taking the Bad Step without ropes this time. No difficulties. We retrieved our sacs then dropped down and headed west, skirting the base of Am Basteir's northern face. This had some very distinct banding in the rock and loomed over us ominously as we passed beneath its fortress-like, dark side. Once past Am Basteir and its Tooth we climbed back to the ridge up a very steep scree path, dumped the sacs again and then had a very easy walk up to the summit of Bruach na Frithe (3.30). The easiest of all the Cuillin, I thought.
We returned to pick up the sacs then descended into Fionn Choire over scree at first, then grass and rocks; an easy, very pleasant descent via some grassy slopes and moorland to the Allt Dearg Mor where a path took us back through the grass and heather to the Sligachan Hotel. (18.05).
And that was the Cuillin done! A bit of a relief. | |||||||
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