Cycling Down the Rhine
Saturday 2nd September 2017
Boppard to Bad Godesburg
Today's ride was easy enough in truth but I had screwed up the bike
computer by inadvertently changing the wheel circumference setting. This meant
it was saying we'd done more kilometres than we really had so when we were
thinking we were nearly there we actually still had miles and miles yet to go...
That made it feel tiring even though we really ended up doing no more miles than
we would have done anyway... if you follow me.
A cool and cloudy start
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Castle on the Rhine
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Anyway after leaving Boppard we cycled along to Koblenz where the mighty Moselle river joins the Rhine.
Koblenz is a very nice city and we paused there to admire the massive, teutonic
statue to Emperor Wilhelm I, or Wilhem dem Grossen as the inscription put it.
A modest, sensitive sort of chap by the look of him. Actually the original
statue was blown up by the Americans at the end of World War II but following
the fall of the Berlin Wall and the reunification of Germany a replica statue was
put up in 1993, as a symbol of German unity.
Koblenz
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Monument to Kaiser Wilhelm I
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From Koblenz it was easy riding north along the west banks of the Rhine.
We passed by the remains of the bridge of Remagen, the only bridge across
the Rhine not to be destroyed by the retreating Germans during the war. It fell
down shortly after being captured by the Americans, killing a number of them,
and hasn't been rebuilt.
Hitler had five of his military leaders executed for allowing the
bridge to fall into the hands of the allies intact.
We stopped here briefly, in Andernach
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The western bridge support at Remagen
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We arrived fairly knackered and rained on in Bad Godesburg, our apartment for
the night being cheap (57 euros for both) and spartan. At first I thought we
were the only people in this large, slightly dilapidated, pre-war building but we
did see some others later. There was no breakfast included for our 57 euros; what
we got was a large room with a couple of beds, a separate, shared bathroom, and
a communal kitchen. A faint smell of curry drifted in and out of the rooms.
It was a cash-in-hand job and the owner
of the hand disappeared as soon as he had cash in it. We chained the bikes
up and left them under a flimsy, rotting shelter in the back garden... the whole
place was a bit neglected and run-down really.
After a shower and the usual chores we were off into town to find food
and drink but first there was a highly-skilled job to do. It was time to
take my stitches out. The nice lady doctor at the hospital had said she could
take them out or alternatively we could have a bash at DIY. Well we
couldn't hang around Lorrach for a whole week so she had shown Andrew what
to do and added a forceps and scalpel to the plastic bag full of medical stuff
which the hospital had generously given me. Andrew now responded to the
call and a fine job of unstitching me he did too - thanks, Andrew.
Stitches gone
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We then walked into Bad Godesburg and for the first time saw some of the impact
the last year's mass immigration has had on Germany. Middle Eastern shops and
restaurants were everywhere, all the signs and shop names in Arabic script and
the menus too so we had no idea what food was being offered. In the end we kept
on walking through the quarter and finally found a Greek place doing a variety
of tapas. That sufficed.
Andrew gets four deuces in his box at crib
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Today we did 52.7 miles, bringing our total to 616.17 miles.
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