Sgurr Eilde Mor
Binnein Mor
Na Gruagaichean
Map
A cloudy miserable day. I left Fort William about 8:30 but as I approached Kinlochleven
it was doing steady light rain and not wanting to set off in that I parked in a
layby and waited to see if it would change. About an hour later it had more or less stopped,
though still looking likely to do a bit; nevertheless I carried on to Kinlochleven, parked
the car by a large factory and set off about 10:05.
Up the wrong route. I'd crossed over two streams coming into Kinlochleven instead of one!
Consequently I followed the large water-pipes up the hillside for about 40 mins wondering
how on earth it all corresponded to the map. Eventually enlightenment came and it was
back to the car and back down the road to the correct starting point from which
I finally set off at 11:05. Grrr!
The early stages were a steep climb up a path through woodland - not conifers thankfully.
Then having emerged from that I plodded on through mist. I was sweating with
the exertion despite the cloud and too hot to put the Berghaus on, so I carried on in
shirt-sleeves - passing a yankee couple coming from the other direction with umbrellas up! Hohoho.
I also overtook a mixed party of a about 11 people, mostly
my age but faffing considerably. As I caught up with them they stopped for a rest and were
getting the thermos flasks out.
There was a distinct path to follow and it was a long gradual climb up to the high
lochan (Coire an Lochain) below Sgurr Eilde Mor, then a trek round its southern side,
and up the final steep scree slope to the summit (2:00). A fairly barren spot.
There were breaks in the cloud and it wasn't raining now so I could see some of
the valley below and across to the surrounding peaks. I had hoped to do 4 munros
today, Binnein Beag being the other one, but because of the early delay and the
false start, not to mention the fact that I'd used up a fair bit of energy doing
just one, I thought I'd pare it down to 3. Met a couple at the top who set off
down the way I'd come.
Binnein Mor from Sgurr Eilde Mor |
I descended west towards the north side of the lochan and then set off up the path
to the bealach between Binnein Mor and Na Gruagaichean. This got steeper and steeper
as it approached the ridge and the path kept disappearing under banks of snow which,
rather worryingly, didn't have any other footprints across them. It was a bit dodgy
in places, being so steep by now and also the ground in places had large cracks
running through it as if it was about to peel off and break away from the hillside.
At last I got to the top but there I was faced with a great wall of snow about 12 ft
high, a big lip of snow clinging to the edge of the ridge, and I couldn't get up
it. For a suicidal moment or two I contemplated digging my feet into the snow and
climbing up it but sanity quickly returned. Instead I angled sideways to where there
seemed to be a gap in the snow. This was away from any path though and very steep -
was getting a bit anxious. But using cold fingers and the walking pole I managed to
warily scramble up to the ridge. All a bit scary - God was implored - and later thanked.
Binnein Beag behind the slopes of Binnein Mor |
After that it was fairly straightforward following the ridge over a 'top' which is
un-named on the OS map and on up to the rocky summit of Binnein Mor (4:20). The ridge
was narrow in places, steeply falling away on both sides, and covered in snowdrifts
here & there. Footprints led over the snow, however, so I just followed them, hoping
there was something solid beneath - a bit disconcerting. There was a short ridge at the
top and I went along it to the end just to make sure it was properly copped.
Still a bit misty but I could see down to the bottom ok.
I returned to the 'top' on the bealach and turned right there down a sharp, stony ridge
and then up again to the summit of Na Gruagaichean. Rocky top and cairn (5:15).
From there I followed the spur south and when the path disappeared I just made
directly for Kinlochleven which I could see in the distance.
It was a steep descent down the grassy/rocky hillside but fortunately the light rain
stopped just after I left the summit - before that it had been an intermittent light
drizzle sandwiched between some dry periods.
Na Gruagaichean |
During the final descent there were some wonderfully atmospheric views of Kinlochleven with
striking light-and-dark contrasts spilling across the landscape beneath the brooding clouds -
it would have made a great photo but I had used up all my film taking poor middle-of-a-cloud
shots earlier. A shame.
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